road trip – The Good Egg

Where Are We Sleeping?

$5 Campsite in the National Forest by Grand Tetons

$5 Campsite in the National Forest by Grand Tetons

There is a selfish part of me that wants to keep the secret of finding free or cheap campsites to myself. Lots of trial and error over many long road-trips with my Fiancé Maren went into developing a system. Initially there is a little bit of panic in the back of your mind at the uncertainty of where you are going to sleep as the sun starts to sink lower. As time goes on, and you become more comfortable living with that uncertainty, it turns into more of a game or challenge.

In the spirit of helping others to crack the code, and hopefully getting a couple more people out there on the road soaking in its beauty and enjoying the eccentricities, I’ll share the basic system we use. It isn’t perfect, and it’s always evolving, but it should take a little of that initial doubt or fear out of starting the journey.

I am not sure how many people know about the amazing network of public land in the States that’s just begging to be camped on. A few years ago, I had no clue until I bumped into a Ranger in Sequoia National Forest. There are different types and different rules, but they basically follow the same principals. I’ve broken them down below into categories, and as always, use common sense when you’re camping out there. Stay within your limits, don’t ruin it for the rest of us, be courteous, clean up after yourself, yadda yadda. Just be a good person.

I can’t stress enough how valuable a National Parks Pass is if you are serious about spending any extended time on the road. It gets you free admission to parks, and half price camping. There are different options available. It is free to Seniors, Active Duty Military, and anyone with a disability. This little plastic card is going to save you a ton of money.

National Forests

Each National Forest has its own rules about what activities are allowed, but you can research all of that on their website before you get there.Generally there is a campground with primitive sites, (fire ring, pit toilet), and then usually some dispersed camping areas where you can basically pull up, and set up your own camp.

If you are using a tent, not your vehicle, options expand. Once you are far enough away from water sources or roads, Bob’s your Uncle. Wherever you sling your pack down is your new home. There is usually a 14 day limit on staying in National Forests.

Lastly, National Parks are usually full to the brim, and people book sites months in advance. The beauty is, National Parks are usually bordered by the less regulated and less popular National Forests. If you are willing to stay just outside the Park, you can usually find a great spot away from the hordes for cheap or even free.

Maren getting a moment of peace after being trapped in the car with me.

National Parks

To some, it might sound like I am some kind of elitist, and don’t mingle with the tourists and summertime crowds at National Parks. To a degree that’s true. I don’t like being in a built-up campground buzzing with noisy generators, and RV’s that have flat-screen TV’s bigger than my house.

Having said that, they are National Parks for a reason. They are some of the most stunning and breathtaking sights you can visit in America. The convenience of rolling out of bed, already being in the Park, and having the whole day to hike can make it totally worth it to book in advance. Prices are usually not too crazy, especially if you have the year pass, (50% off), and the proceeds go to keeping National Parks up and running.

If you travel outside of the summer months, you can even score campgrounds that are nearly empty, and special deals on other offers. In January, Maren and I were somehow given a table by the windows in the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite during a snowstorm for a white tablecloth brunch buffet. Shout-out to the Maitrede, who seated us there even though we had clearly been living in our Landcruiser and hadn’t showered in days.

No edits were done on this photo, this place is rediculous.

Bureau of Land Management, or BLM

This is where is really gets interesting. I always compare the BLM to the wild west because it just seems to be so loosely monitored to me. Basically, you figure out where there is BLM land, generally out west, and you are allowed to just drive on, and set up camp. It is free, you can stay for 14 days, and you usually won’t see another soul. You can really get sense of peace and quiet out there. Just don’t leave your doors open in grasslands or you’ll pick up a hitchhiking mouse. It’s tough to convince them to leave.

My biggest issue with BLM land is actually finding it. I usually load the state map for where I am headed from here, but even then it can be tough. Usually it is word of mouth or info out there on blogs that is most useful. If you are ever in the San Louis Obispo area, go to Carrizzo Plains. It is like being on Mars.

Drying off after a swim in the Colorado River.

Other Resources

There are a couple of Aps that are pretty handy when you are there boondocking it, and money is tight. I like The Dyrt, it generally has up to date information, and the sites are pretty nice. Only downside is once you cross into Canada it doesn’t work.

iOverlander is another pretty good ap, but also includes a lot of parking lots and spots of questionable legality.

I’m hesitant to throw this one in, but freecampsites.net has a lot of spots on there. It has also brought us down some of the most sketchy roads I have ever been on, so use it with caution, or when you want to test your own mortality.

These are all crowdsourced Aps. Users can edit or review campsites. One man’s paradise can be another’s nightmare, so additional research is always encouraged. Don’t just rely on ShredTheGnar420’s review from 3 years ago.

Get on out and find some sweet spots off the tourist trap path to sleep. Reach out to me if you want some suggestions in specific spots, if I have any hidden gems, I’ll let you know.

The Build

It was a thought that started to plant roots in my mind as I was getting ready to separate from the Air Force. Build out a van into an adventure mobile, then live in it like some kind of gypsy. I read everything I could find on van life—blogs, forums, Instagram posts. I planned it out in my head a million times.

Somewhere along the way, I discovered the Toyota Landcruiser. It has what I can only describe as a cult like following around the globe for its reliability, and ruggedness. I started to keep tabs on Cruisers for sale on Craigslist near me in San louis Obispo County California. Finally, I saw a 1991 for a reasonable price, and on my 29^thbirthday I bought it off a guy in an Auto Zone parking lot for $3,200. This is when the fun of converting it began.

I’ll break down the main components of the build here for anyone interested in doing something similar. Although it seems like a pretty daunting task, it is actually a blast. If you feed into the Instagram van life hype, it is easy to think you need a Mercedes Sprinter and $20,000 in upgrades before you hit the road. That is just plain false. Keep it simple, and you can get out there in a sweet adventure mobile for pretty cheap, then use that extra cash to extend your travels. The hardest part is having the confidence to start.

As a note, I actually built out my Landcruiser twice. After wrapping up my cross-country trip, I had lots of ideas on how to improve the experience, so the photos are a combination of both builds—same car, same idea, two different styles. They are also all shot on an old phone, so be gentle, this post is about documenting the build not artistic photos.

Getting Started

First things first, I brought it to a mechanic for a checkup, and to replace every fluid. Luckily it was in great shape, because to be honest at the time I really didn’t know much about evaluating the vehicle.

Next I took out the middle and back row of seats to make room for a bed. Out came the dingy carpeting, the bubble filled window tinting, the Disney Princess stickers covering the walls.

Sleep System

Essentially, I built a box out of plywood to create a sleeping platform, with room for storage underneath. The first build was pretty clunky, a bit too high—lots of storage but not enough headroom when sitting up in bed. The second version was shorter, but much sturdier, and had just the right amount of room. I actually measured the tallest component in the kitchen (the kettle) and built the whole thing to size.

The sleeping surface ended up being the exact same size as a full bed—not too shabby. After a visit to an upholstery shop, I got a 2-inch-thick piece of memory foam cut to size. A seamstress sewed a cover for it, and all in all it cost about $100.

Depending on the season, it is usually topped off with a sheet, a thick down quilt, and lastly, one of those green wool army surplus blankets to keep the dirt, rocks, and general muck out of the bed. It also does a great job of keeping our dog’s hair from between the sheets.

Kitchen

The kitchen is my favorite aspect of the Landcruiser. I built a drawer that pulls straight out of the tailgate for a little counter and food prep area. A simple Coleman 2 burner camp stove with those green disposable cans of gas is all you need. Some staples are a few pots and pans, cups, silverware, French press and kettle for the obligatory morning coffee.

A plastic container that slides under the bed makes a great pantry for canned or dry goods. We carry a small cooler that we stock with ice depending on the season.

Power

I hooked up a deep cycle battery that charges from the alternator while the car was running. Adding an isolator eliminates the fear of draining the main battery overnight. Throw in an inverter, and I could just plug anything I wanted to charge straight into the power strip. Initially I wanted to build a solar setup, but the cost was just too high for me. If I could do it over, I might try to invest in a Goal Zero, I have heard some pretty great things about them.

Storage

There is a fair amount of room under the bed to stash all our camping gear, non-perishable foods, folding chairs, and various odds and ends. On the roof rack is a box big enough to store a few big duffle bags, snowboards, surfboard, or whatever needs a home.

On shorter trips, storage isn’t an issue, but twice now Maren and I have used this Cruiser to move cross country. In those cases, we just play Tetris with our bags each night, stacking them carefully in the front seats so the bed is clear.

Here is an honest look at how messy it can look mid road trip when you have to dry your towels out, get firewood, and just wrapped up a long hike.

Paint Job

This 1991 Landcruiser spent it’s whole life in California—great to avoid snow induced rust, but the sun did a number on the paintjob. There was no way I could justify paying for a professional paintjob, especially since I was going to be doing lots of off-roading. I opted to sand down the factory paint, and apply roll on truck bed liner. It is tough as nails, and you don’t have to worry about scratching it up on trails. Top that off with a paint color of your choice, I went with electric blue initially, but on the second build switched it to forest green. It will cost about $75 vs a few grand for a professional job.

Miscellaneous

The first go around, I used fabric with magnets sewn into the edges as curtains. They ended up being a huge hassle and always fell. For take two, it was Velcro sewn onto the curtains, and super glued to the window frame. This was better by far, and I highly suggest it. People say that the adhesive will give out in heat, but we were in 100+ degree Utah and had no issues.

On the topic of windows, I cannot suggest enough to buy or make some mosquito netting with magnets to stick on overnight. There is nothing like being able to sleep with the windows down for a nice cross breeze without waking up to that obnoxious buzz of blood suckers circling your head.

A small folding table provides extra counter space to prepare meals, and it takes up almost no room.

Plug in string lights are great for cooking in the dark, and just adding a warm feeling to your campsite at night.

If you are going to be camping in rustic sites, or during the offseason, I recommend a 2-gallon water cooler. It is the perfect size to fill up water bottles, cook, and do dishes.

I hope you learned something or gained a bit of confidence from this write-up. You don’t have to be a finish carpenter or have a ton of disposable income to get on the road. Break the build into manageable tasks. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. Feel free to email me or drop a comment with any questions, I’m always happy to talk about builds.

An Ode to Hec’

Being a superstitious guy, writing about my old faithful Toyota is quite the internal struggle. I just recently completed a 9,639 mile road trip from Boston, Massachusetts, zig-zagging across the country, dipping in and out of Canada, and ending on Vancouver Island, British Columbia (more about that another time).

I want to sing the praises of this fine piece of craftsmanship. However, I am worried that as soon as I hit publish on this post, lightning will split a tree in half, and send it crashing down onto the hood of my beautiful, well loved 1991 Toyota Landcruiser, fondly referred to as Hec.

Threats of forest on vehicle violence aside, I have to take this opportunity to heap some love on the SUV that has given me so much.

First things first. I bought this beauty for $3200 while I was living in San Louis Obispo County California as a present for myself when I turned 29. I had been dreaming of having a converted van or adventure mobile to camp and bum around in for ages. It was time. I did my due diligence, met a random guy off Craigslist in a parking lot, and after a test drive, the rest is history.

After getting all the fluids swapped out, brakes rebuilt, and new belts, I was a man on a mission. Next I removed the seats, experimented with different platform bed/kitchen options, constantly tinkering, tweaking, scrapping and starting over. Shoutout to my old landlord Ron, who very graciously allowed me to use his garage and tools. He was an old hippie who had once converted a school bus and drove it to Mexico, so maybe he saw me as a kindred spirit.

Many months later, with a handful of small weekend excursions under the belt, I hit the road in the Cruiser along with my now Fiancé, and our pooch Cujo. We were on the ‘no plan plan.’ Work our way up the west coast through California, Oregon, and Washington, eventually dropping Maren off at her new home in Vancouver.

Along the way somewhere, we named the car Hec, after the scruffy, scrappy, ill tempered but lovable character from Hunt For the Wilderpeople (if you haven’t seen it, do yourself a favor and Netflix it stat). He found his way into our lives and our hearts, keeping us safe on icy mountain grades, muddy washed out forest roads, and butt puckering switchbacks.

A few years and renovations later, constant tinkering to keep Hec legal, and we were off cross country again. This was the second time we packed our entire lives into a 29 year old vehicle to hit the road. Surfboards, snowboards, suitcases, duffle bags, tents, tools, camera gear, a junkyard dog, you name it we packed it.

Hec took care of us the whole way. Easy riding at 55 MPH, except for those grades in Colorado and Montana where it was more like 20…or occasionally 15. It isn’t always sunshine and rainbows with a car that is nearly your age, and I don’t want to make it out to be a cakewalk. There were lots of hiccups and head scratching moments out on the road.

We accidentally picked up a hitchhiking mouse in South Dakota. We blew fuses, leaked fluids, guzzled gas, drove through 100 degree plus weather with no AC, spliced wires, used a paperclip and morse code to diagnose a check engine light.

There were more trips to AutoZones than I would like to admit. Our brakes finally gave out in Zion National Park and I thought for a second we were headed over the edge on some switchbacks. A more sane person may have thrown in the towel, decided that keeping this old Cruiser running just wasn’t worth it.

One thing I will never claim to be is sane.

These are the quirks of Hec. You have to learn to love them, or at least tolerate them. He’s a scrappy underdog. They are a small price to pay for the endless adventures, and winding roads he has taken us down. Thanks for all the memories buddy, here is to the next 215,000 miles.

Photo cred for the majority of these photos to my wonderful fiancé Maren Preuss, more work at www.marenpreuss.com

Iceland

It took 31 years for me to finally get my act together and visit Iceland-the country where my mother was born. Any adventure worth its weight involves a road trip, and this was no different. My mother, aunts, uncle and I piled into a borrowed SUV to deliver and install my Grandmother’s headstone in her hometown of Ísafjörður.

I think it was only fitting that my first time exploring the island of my heritage was spent way off the beaten path, on narrow winding, white knuckle roads, in the Westfjords. Luckily My Uncle Svenni here did the driving on the sketchiest of the roads, leaving the easier parts for me.

Answering nature’s call or searching for more coffee usually brought us to some pretty mind-blowing spots along the route. This hotel was prepping for the upcoming busy season, leaving the serene view all for us.

No Iceland photo collection is complete without a church set alone in a field dwarfed by mountains. Took some careful tiptoeing through a field full of sheep poo to get this shot.

I admit it. I played the tourist a little bit. Over coffee and cakes (translation: giant spread of snacks and sandwiches) I’d learn the family lore of Dinjandi Waterfall. Legend has it our distant relatives once owned this impressive faucet, and were going to sell to a hydropower company. No verification on that tale, but I’m going with it because it sounds epic.

Dinjandi is actually a series of 7 different falls, my favorite being Göngumannfoss. Named for the guys who wandered to find sheep who strayed from the flock. Pretty fitting for this rambling wandering man.

A common thread after every trip is a feeling that I didn’t shoot nearly enough film. This time was no different, but through the family road trip I had an experience celebrating and memorializing the life of my Grandmother that has me already planning my return.